now you let the clear dry for manufacture spec cure time. Use enough coats of clear to bury the flake. YOu will have to play around with ressures this is not an an exact science.be sure not to rush this step because you can end up with a mess if you get a run or a sag,with that being said if you do get a run just stop let dry and start over.once you have your desired coverage with the flake you can move on to clearing the parts. When you spray your flake make sur eyou have enough pressure to move the flake through the gun but not so much that its not blowing the material off the part you are spraying. You want to add enough flake so that it is suspended in the blending clear,you DO NOT want the flake sitting in the bottom of your mixing cup because this will happen inside of the gun and clogg the tip. 025 ith the.015 flake and suspend in blending clear.(this is what I use but you can use HOKsg150 for this also)The reason I dont use clear is the build up factor as there will be alot of layers in the graphic process.this helps keep the mills down. I will mix to different flake sizes together to get the maxium coverage and sparkle. I will first spray high metallic silver base and get complete coverage of the parts. The base of this job will be a heavy flake(.025) (I use a 2.5 tipped gun for this.) Let assume all the body work and prep has been done and you are ready for paint. Remember this is how I do it and some may have other ways of acheiving the same effects.which is cool cuz painting is art and there are no real rules in art.the outlined tech is worded for someone with some paint expierence. I will lay out how to do motorcycle tins but these techniques can be applied to anything. With the regaining popuarity of this style especailly in the motorcycle and hot rod world I figured I would throw out some tech for your enjoyment.
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